Thursday, January 22, 2009

Gramp's Loop, January 1, 2009

Our home is a short walk from several large bodies of water, including Long and Halfway Ponds, but the presence of private homes and access by dirt road only, deters casual investigation. Of late however I have been hearing – and reading, stories of wondrous things going on in those woods, along those ponds. Did you know that for over a half century people from all over the world have come to a woodland camp along Halfway Pond to learn ancient dances? Just that little piece of information stirred my imagination and, thereafter, on many occasions while I was working in my yard I could swear I heard lutes, flutes, and tambourines. There are also quite a few new parcels of land in this area that have recently been acquired by conservation groups, and which will now remain forever wild and – relatively, undisturbed. And among these is the Halfway Pond Conservation Area – administered by the Wildlands Trust, which encompasses over 400 acres of land between Long Pond and the Myles Standish State Forest. When it snowed on this past New Year’s Eve – a nice fluffy, eight or nine inches, I thought that the conditions were perfect to take my first hike in this area: the snow not deep enough to require special equipment or meticulous planning, but deep enough to deter others. On the first day of 2009, after packing a light lunch, my ten year old son Patrick and I set out for one of the trailheads in this area, located off Long Pond Road, a few miles down Mast Road. Fortunately Mast Road – which is unpaved for its entire length, had been recently plowed. My old ’86 Camry is not meant for off-road adventures, but plowed, hard-packed snow is no problem for any front-wheel drive car. So we made our way down Mast Road, going slowly both because of the conditions and because we had never been to the trailhead parking area and didn’t want to pass it by. We found it easily enough -about two miles down on the right, but were disappointed to see that it had not been plowed at all. I know that the town has other priorities, but if it wants people to appreciate – and use, its new conservation areas, it needs to keep them open year-round. Undaunted, we unloaded our backpacks and a light toboggan (in case we found the perfect hill), and trudged into the new-fallen snow. I knew immediately that I had been right about the snowfall. There were no signs of anyone else, and the shin-deep snow was still light enough to push easily before me. The trail we had chosen begins just off Mast Road. It is called ‘Gramps Loop’, and the Wildlands Trust map that is available online shows it to be a relatively uniform circle. The entrance seems obvious too: a path leads slightly uphill from the parking area, to a large wooden display where you would expect to find a detailed map of the trails and other important information. Unfortunately the display was empty, as was a box to the side which is intended to contain individual trail maps. Never mind, I thought: the online map is straightforward enough: its lines suggesting a simple loop that a youngster would have no problem following. The online information also suggests Gramps Loop be followed in a clockwise fashion, so we did just that – or so we thought. Two things put us at ease right away. First, the excitement of being alone in a quiet wood that seemed to have been decorated just for us. Though the woods were, at the start, mainly comprised of Plymouth’s ubiquitous dwarf pines, under a fresh coat of snow each pine cone was an ornament, and many boughs were gracefully bent over under the weight of the fresh-fallen snow, as if bowing before a partner about to dance. Secondly – and more importantly, the trail was easy to follow: even under its fresh white blanket there was a clear, clean furrow to follow, and every so often what the eye perceived as the trail was confirmed by the emblem – attached to the trees, of the Wildlands Trust. It became clear after a short time though, that the trail was not the geometrically uniform circle depicted on the map: it wavered, in and out, dipped up and down. But no matter, the silence was delicious, the scenery wonderful. At times the dip in the path was sufficient for a try at a toboggan ride. I asked Patrick to whisper, not to yell or blurt out his questions or comments, hoping that we might encounter wildlife. We came across the tracks of deer at many points, and they seemed to be following a more direct path, crossing and re-crossing our winding trail. At one point a large game bird – a pheasant I guessed, burst out of its resting place and flew away from us. On we trudged, and after thirty or forty minutes or so, I began to wonder, not worry, about the progress we were making. We didn’t seem to be turning in the direction I expected, though the path was just as clear to the eye as it had been at the beginning. We trudged on. Stopping only to listen, to ‘snap’ a few pictures, or to examine more the tracks we encountered. At one point the deer tracks – if that’s what they were, moved up against a larger, full pine, and multiplied as if - perhaps in the midst of the New Year’s Eve storm, one or two deer had taken shelter for a time in the lee of this large pine. We examined those tracks closely, and though they had the width of a foot, at the bottom of each track was what appeared to be the dimple of a hoof. Shortly thereafter, using the toboggan as a seat, we enjoyed a lunch of peanut butter and jelly and – not surprisingly, bottled water that had turned to a refreshing frozen slush. I had no idea where we were – in terms of Gramp’s Loop, but I was happy that we were far enough away from the everyday to experience almost total silence. Almost, as I said, because somewhere far off I could hear a faint, high whistling. A bird? I remembered years back, to a hike I had taken in the White Mountains, where the only sound to be heard for miles was an odd, almost vocalized squeak. I had first taken it for some kind of wildlife but eventually determined it was just the sound of wood on wood, of a fallen branch, jostled by the wind, rubbing against another tree. Perhaps this whistle was of similar origin? We packed up our trash, licked our fingers, replaced our woolen mittens and moved on. I thought we must be near the end of the loop – and perceived a change in the light, a short ways ahead. There was a lovely bushy pine tree with a wonderful shape, covered in snow – not your typical dwarf, and passing that tree suddenly we found ourselves witin a small but impressive stand of white pines. White Pines are the tallest trees in the Eastern United States, sometimes measuring up to 150 feet tall or more. The White Pines along Gramp’s Loop seemed to be approaching 100 feet. It is at this spot that an Eagle Scout wisely chose to build a wooden bench and, brushing off the snow, we sat down for a minute and soaked in the atmosphere. It was here too that – while I didn’t tell Patrick, I started to sense something was wrong. From what I could glean from the information on the Wildlands Trust site, we were either making horrible time, or going in the wrong direction. Patrick of course, sensed something, and when he spoke it was often to question exactly where we were, exactly how far we had to go, and whether we were on the right trail. I was confident we were still on Gramp’s Loop, though I hadn’t seen a marker for a long while, but I was not at all sure how far we had come, or how far we had to go. So I decided to push a little harder. The path, at least, was still very easy to follow at this point. About 15 minutes later after a steady, gradual uphill, I spied what I thought must be the trailhead and waited, smiling, for Patrick to catch up to me. But it wasn’t the trailhead at all. Rather it was a juncture of a path that led straight down to the shore of Halfway Pond. If you came up that path – perhaps after canoeing to that spot on the shore, you’d be facing a nicely carved sign that said, simply “Loop”, with arrows pointing in both directions. Getting out my online map, I confirmed that somehow we had gone the other way around the loop: counter-clockwise. In short order we descended down to a wetland area – clearly marked on the map, and then uphill and to the right, only a short way to go according to the map. But just as I thought we were near the end, the trail opened up into a glade of sorts, and the clear furrow of the path was gone. I scanned the glade, side to side, but could not detect the trail. Straight ahead I could make out Halfway Pond, which meant we were still west of the trailhead, so I knew the approximate direction we should take. We bushwhacked from there, keeping the pond to our right, and angling southwest (I thought) sure to either find the path again, or run into Mast Road. It was the latter, as it turned out, and once on the snow-covered road we simply walked until we came to the car - just a minute or two. I was surprised, I have to say, at how poorly the trail was marked. Given the twists and turns in the trail, I was also disappointed that the map offered by the Wildlands Trust online, was so vague. Nowhere does the trail information include estimates of the time it should take to finish the loop. No information is available at the trailhead to suggest that care should be taken at the outset, to make sure that you are headed in the direction you think you are. And – either there are far too few trail markers, or they were covered in snow. I suggest that they consider using paint blazes - as many trails do, swaths of unnatural colors: they are easily applied and visible from a great distance. I am not suggesting that there is an inordinate amount of danger in taking Gramp’s Loop, or any other path in the area. But if the trails are to be open year-round, better maps, better trail markings, and more extensive descriptions of the trails themselves should be made available. All in all, Gramp’s Loop is a wonderful walk (and I look forward to repeating our walk in the Spring – and the 400 acres of the Halfway Pond Conservation Area add immeasurably to the pleasure of living in Plymouth.

Thursday, January 15, 2009

The Eel River Preserve

I suppose I’m now old enough to join the mall walkers and – Lord knows, I could use the exercise. But walking the mall, or treadin the mill, or exercise of any kind for that matter sets my teeth to grinding, my mind to wandering and – before you know it, I’m on my ass, laptop warming my thighs, thinking but sinking into the couch again. To put it bluntly, pure exercise bores me to tears. So I thought, why not take a walk. Not exercise in disguise, no: but perhaps exercise by accident. Why not take a real walk, where I had not walked before, maybe even make it an irregular event (consistency to be avoided at all costs). And, of course, why not share those walks by writing down a mixture of my impressions, the history of the places I’m hoofin it by, and whatever comes into my head at the moment. It’s true – I think we can all admit, that we tend to ignore, or are indifferent to, what we see every day. We rush past the little oddities of architecture, the alluring dirt roads, the historic markers half hidden in the brush, telling ourselves that we’ll come back one day - when we have the time, when the weather is right, when the stars are aligned: in other words – never. So I mean to correct that right here and right now. I mean to act on the whims, the hints of possible adventure, to actually take the turn and rumble up the dirt roads, and discover for myself at the very least how little I know about this town, and to share that ignorance with you – whether you like it or not. December 26, 2008. There was a letter to the editor in the Old Colony the other day, a beautiful letter describing Ashley Holmes, and the bogs that his family owned for generations along the Eel River in Plymouth. In the 25 years I have lived in Plymouth I have probably driven past those bogs – which once bordered both sides of Long Pond Road, a thousand times. In all that time I had never stopped, but had always taken note of how well tended the bogs were – how they were a quilt of changing color, and how obvious it was that special care beyond what was needed to produce the necessary yield of cranberries in the Fall, had been given to them. The letter revealed that Mr. Holmes had sold those bogs and other properties to the Wildlands Trust, and that they had become part of what is now called The Eel River Preserve. The day after Christmas I took the long way to the Plymouth Library, intending to drive past the Preserve’s trailhead, before researching the history of the area. As I passed the location of the bogs I could see right away that they had begun to return to their natural state: a process that will probably take decades. Small pine trees had begun to burst forth in the untended bog, and the water level was too low to protect the vines against frost, let alone ice and snow. Ice and Algae in the Eel River Past the bogs, around the bend on the left heading north on Long Pond Road – just off Boot Pond Road, a small depression in the land beneath a hillock of trees has been turned into the Preserver’s official trailhead: complete with a parking area, a covered bench, and a single picnic table. I made a note to remember to turn in there on my way back from the library – though I couldn’t see a connection between that site and the old Holmes bogs. I spent about ninety minutes in the special history collection at the Library and, to be honest, I didn’t find what I was looking for. It’s going to take me far longer, I am sure, to figure out how to efficiently research the history of the areas I consider for these walks, than it will be to actually walk these areas. So I returned to the trailhead with little more than a map of the site – taken off the web, and the understanding that many of the names of the nearby landmarks, ponds, and such, were older, and more obscure than I imagined. The trailhead parking lot was still covered in ice and snow, but far less than a few days before. The trailhead, I discovered, was right there – at the edge of the hillock, hiding in the shadow of the trees, the trail itself angling up alongside Boot Pond Road. They have made a good start. The signs are still freshly painted. A banner boasting of the Community Preservation Act still flaps in the wind. The trail is easy to follow – though it appears that few have taken advantage of the open invitation. The trail begin with a small climb within sight of the homes on Boot Pond Road – to your right, and ambles for about a hundred yards or so, then angles sharply to the left and downhill to the edge of the old bogs. To be frank, it is not a particularly appealing setting – not here, not yet. No matter how well tended a bog is, it is still a kind of ongoing construction site. The edges of the woods are scalloped in several places from years of digging and dumping (sand for the bog, materials dredged out of the bog to keep the vines free). The old bog itself is a kind of attractive nuisance now, and the river which allegedly flows through the site is choked from an abundance of algae due, I suppose, from decades of fertilization and the infiltration of septage from nearby homes. The trail – heading west toward Myles Standish, is at first wide and easily traveled. It is also pocked with an overabundance of metal posts that mark the good intentions of the various conservation groups that played a role in acquiring the land. There are – for example, several posts that dispense plastic bags for cleaning up after dogs. And there are markers that demarcate the border of what is now official wetland – meaning that certain activities are not allowed under any circumstances. Still, like the decades that it will take for bogs to return to a natural state, it will take at least as many years for people to begin to see this property differently. There is – be aware, plenty of evidence of those dogs running free: step lightly. There are, as well, unnecessary impediments to walkers. In too many places the homes along Boot Pond Road intrude, and the sounds of cars along Long Pond Road are prominent for at least the first quarter hour, as you make your way toward the State Forest, away from Long Pond Road. If you stick to the northern edge of the former bog – perhaps intending as I did to come back along the southern edge, you will also find that you have to traipse a bit too closely to the water’s edge. At one point a patch of briars and narrow branches completely obstructs the path and you can continue only if you drop to your knees and crawl through a thorny opening. There are several opportunities to cross to the other side though – walking over the concrete and steel remnants of the gates that were used to artificially raise the water level for various bog sections (which could then be harvested one by one). Given the condition of the paths this winter, I would suggest that you take the first opportunity to do so, and continue as far as you can along the southern edge of the Bog. This was an unplanned walk, and I didn’t have sufficient time to explore beyond the first few kidney-shaped bogs. After a little more than a half hour, I crossed over and came back on the other side of the bogs, noting only the extensive algae growth that gave an unnatural luster to the otherwise sluggish Eel River water. I’ll go back again, perhaps this winter, and explore the remainder of the Preserve: I might begin from the far end, on Hoyt’s Pond. It took ten thousand years to make this town. Consider taking an hour or so each week, to see what still remains.